View from the edge of the caldera in El Valle
As the plane began to pick up speed on the run-way, the woman next to me closed her eyes and marked her upper body with the sign of the cross — shoulder to shoulder, brow to heart. Dios mio, here we go… The day before, Phillip and I decided to take a bus 5-6 hours (east) to Panama City to catch this small plane (west) to David, Panama. We had been hoping to cross the border from Panama into Costa Rica about 5 days before this and were not able to cross.
The indigenous group, Ngobe-Bugle, had been staging a protest to stop the beginning of a mining project that had been signed over to Korea by the Panamanian President Martenelli. The Ngobe (pronounced ‘Noobay’) were protecting their land which sits on top of one of the world’s largest deposit of copper. Rocks, downed trees, and their bodies were present on the western part of the only highway that spans the country of Panama. They wanted to make sure that the government listened to their needs and responded to their demands.
Phillip and I were really inspired by their perserverence and devotion to their land. And, many conversations with locals and non-locals alike revealed the solidarity with the indigenous peoples and the disdain for the actions of a historically greedy president. They also called to the end of a hydro-electric dam that would affect their land and watershed.
However, for Phillip and I…we did not know when we would be able to cross the border into Costa Rica. We had spent a month in Panama with local farmers, the ocean and the mountains. Phillip had a permaculture course that he had signed up and paid for in Southern Costa Rica that we were trying to get to. So, without knowing if the blockade would escalate and lock-down more areas of the country, we made our way to Panama City to fly north and cross the border.
While flying over Panama, I felt the artificial buoyancy achieved when riding in the plane; ‘rising’ above the mundane and fast-tracking our way to the next place of comfort. In a way, I understand our need to fly and make our way to our destination. In another way, I know that the Ngobe struggle is being witnessed all around the world and its not going away anytime soon; many sacred, beautiful pieces of land are being jeopardized by big investors and corporate interests — from Tibet to Brazil to Canada to Panama (we’ve got to pay close attention people!). We do not have to look far to find this struggle over and over again.
The Ngobe people deepened my realization that indigenous people are connected to the land that they live on; there is nowhere else to go. Many other people can just move somewhere else and ‘start over’ again. Well, what if your language and your very way of life is interconnected and interdependent with a place? This is a question that the modern mind cannot fathom as it has been rootless for some time and has forgotten what it means to be a part of a place. But, I digress…
We did make it to Costa Rica. The border town, Paso Canoas was very easy to get through considering that traffic had been greatly reduced because of the blockade. A border crossing normally takes around 2 hours because the lines can be so long. We were able to make our way through in roughly 30 minutes. And, now…after being in Costa Rica for about two weeks…I have the chance to reflect on and write about the beauty and complexity of my time in Panama.
Our first stop upon entering Panama was to do some volunteer work and skill-sharing with Cocecha Sustainible Internacionale (Sustainable Harvest International – SHI). My old friend Sebastian Africano, who works for Trees, Water, People suggested I connect with them if I go to Panama. He had worked with SHI on some fuel-efficient, appropriate technology stoves some years ago. After being in Panama City for one night, we quickly got out the endlessly noisy city and make our way to Penonome to meet with Daysbeth, our guide from SHI.
Daysbeth prepping a small garden bed at a participating family farm
Phillip and I quickly learned that Daysbeth was an amazing link to be in contact with in the area. She was diplomatic in every way — walking the fine line between her needs, our needs, and the SHI participating family’s needs. She was patient with our developing Spanish and very good at helping us communicate with locals.
A Peace Corps volunteer named Katie also joined us in Penonome to tell us the ins and outs of the area. She had been a volunteer for a little over a year in the nearby village we were also going to stay at — Tranquilla (just outside of Anton).
Map of Cocle Province: about 2 hours by bus west of Panama City
The next day, Daysbeth and Katie met us in Penonome to go to a former Peace Corps volunteer’s farm — Finca de los Perezosos (the lazy man’s farm). Don “Perezosos” (he calls himself) bought land three years ago and reforested the land using what he learned from permaculture. We went out to visit and get a feel of what’s happening in the permaculture world in Panama.
Don with Peace Corps volunteer, Brandon
Calobaso (bowl gourd) tree; indeed, used to make bowls and such
His place was definitely a good lesson in what is possible after just 3 years of planting in the tropics. Plants and trees really grow vigorously and fill out quickly. Don hopes to encourage other farmers and land-owners to consciously cultivate their land with as much diversity as possible, instead of farm rows and chemical-use.
Also, one of Don’s favorite things to do is to go into schools and educate children on the use of the ‘magic circle.’ This is what he considers his ‘teach a man to fish’ technique. The idea of the magic circle is a simple and elegant system of composting in place to support the nutrient needs of growing plants. One example of this method is simply digging a hole, filling it with organic matter over time (leaves, food scraps, etc) and planting banana trees on the outside of the circle.
After a day at the farm, Daysbeth took us to the family that was to host us for a week and a half, while we visited other family farms in Tranquilla.
Walking up the path to our host family
Our little wattle and daub casa for the next week and a half
We stayed behind the family’s main house (which is cinder-block). Cinder block houses have become the norm and it is very rare to find these wattle and daub or thatch houses anymore. And, actually Phillip and I planned to sleep in our tent outside (as they only had a single-sized bed for us) for the remainder of the time until we discovered that the only place to camp was in proximity to the dawn-crushing vibrations of the chicken and rooster tree. So, after one night of this madness we moved inside and bought earplugs. Just so you know, the Panamanians and roosters must have a deep appreciation for each other.
The tree that shivered with rooster cries all morning!
So, here begins our time in Tranquilla and with lots of amazing families doing the best they can with what they have. And, with Panama being the top country in Central America with the fastest growing disparities between the rich and the poor, organizations like SHI (that has been around for 30 years or so) are indispensable! SHI has a very thoughtful and methodical five-phase approach in their partnership with local families that are moving to self-sufficiency (in the quickly changing landscape of their country!). Most of the families we visited were in the first phase of this process.
Considering that the theme for Panama has been thus (well, since the Spanish settled there 500 years ago) — clear the land, raise cattle, and more recently mine the land for everything it is worth — there was definitely more pasture and deforested land then we expected. Where there’s cattle, there’s big money. So, the story goes that only the five wealthiest families of Panama own the land and raise cattle on it (bye-bye jungle and natural habitats!). And, the recent blockade by the Nogbe is in response to that third step in total annihilation of a ‘place’ — mining. Of course, the past history and stories of Panama are riddled with the ghosts of gold mining. However, ‘they’ are coming back for more.
To me, this is why efforts like SHI are important. They get people out of the cowboy mythology of the Spanish and back in touch with ways to steward their own self-sufficiency with the land. (There is even a ‘national park’ in Panama, along the East-coast, near Venao, that is a monument to what cattle raising does to the tropics — yes, you guessed it, the only desert in Panama — and, now a national park).
Our first family stop was at the home of Magdalia’s (who cooks SO DIVINE by the way), where we used the SHI super-tropical compost, sifted dirt, and ash to plant balo seeds in for the community (balo is a nitrogen-fixing plant):
Pabo the ever-strutting farm turkey
Sugar cane (to make cane syrup or raspadura)
SHI’s super-tropical compost mix (ready in one month) — chopped banana leaves,ash, sand, chicken poop, and balo leaves (N-fixer)
Pounded, sifted soil mixed with the compost and more ash
More than 200 seeds later, lots of N-fixing trees for the Tranquillo community
The next day, we spent some time prepping some garden beds at our host family’s house. Basically, they needed two beds prepped and a hard-pan field nourished with some ground-breaking roots and Nitrogen. So, we harvested N-fixing macoona seeds nearby and planted them into the hard-pan area, watered the are, and covered it with dried banana leaves (to hold the moisture in as we were doing this during their dry season).
We also prepped the garden beds. One bed, we did the standard way (chicken poop, tilling and such). The other bed, we got a little more creative. We added the chicken poop and chopped fresh banana leaves (Nitrogen and organic matter). Then, we watered it thoroughly and covered it with dried banana leaves in hopes that the soil would attract beneficial microorganisms and other beings of the soil so that the soil could develop more structure. Phillip really took off with this project and designed a beautiful bed with water catchment on the edges and all. Planting in this plot would be ready in a month or so.
Katie standing by the prepped garden bed
SHI also took us further out into the rural area, almost to El Valle, to visit another participating family. We took a bumpy bus ride down a gravel road and got off…well…at what felt like the middle of nowhere. Then, we crossed the road and Daysbeth darted into the forest and down a path, disappearing. We followed… After crossing a stream and hiking up a steep hill, we found ourselves at a homestead that made raspadura (cane sugar) for market. Raphael (the grandfather) was 80 years old and had been making the sugar for 40 years. That day we watched Raphael make raspadura, we transplanted culantro (an herb that smells/tastes like cilantro), made coconut oil and cocada (coconut desert). A little history…sugar cane (canya) found its way to Central America via the Spanish — it is what I refer to as a colonizer’s crop.
Side note on Panama’s awesome elders: Raphael was one of our favorite Panamanian abuelos (grandfathers). He said that he hadn’t gone to a doctor for 70 years. At age 7o, he actually had a medical problem and went to the doctors for help. They gave him medicine and he said that the medicine made things worse. He then said that he thinks that the doctors are not trying to help people heal and get better. Phillip and I looked at each other and nodded…Raphael, we hear ya.
Large, earthen oven behind the house
The horse-drawn sugar cane press (similar to sorghum in the Deep South/Appalachia)
Raphael pushing the sugar cane through
Wooden wheels to press the sugar cane
Raphael then cooks the liquid and adds herbs to draw out impurities
Katie and young boy share fresh sugar cane syrup
Pouring the oxygenated and cooled raspadura into forms
Now begins a photo illustration of our time with coconuts. I was surprised to find out that is difficult if not impossible to find coconut oil for sale in Panama. Very few people still make coconut oil because they simply purchase refined vegetable oil or palm oil from the store. Similar to India and Thailand, I assumed that this tropical, coconut-loving place would also have the oil as it is such a life-affirming, nourishing oil to cook with. So, we made coconut oil at this farm and cocada (sweet coconut dessert) from the left over coconut shreds (from making coconut oil):
Hard core: husking the coconuts
A little water is added to the coconut flesh and then squeezed to release the coconut ‘milk’
The milk is lightly boiled to separate the oil (clear liquid); you just pour off the clear liquid and there you go — coconut oil
After squeezing the milk from the flesh, it was put in this pot along with chunks of coconut, raspadura, cloves, ginger, and cinnamon
Forming the sweet, sticky goo into balls (making cocada)
That weekend, we took some days to explore the area. Katie suggested that we go to El Palmar, a beach between Anton and Panama City. We back-tracked, took a bus and walked down to the beach for the day.
At the start of the next week, we were off again. This time — a community water wheel project and a visit with the cacao tree. This water wheel was being constructed to provide water to the garden beds during the dry season. I’ll also visit the water wheel again in a later portion of this blog entry, as another site had a water wheel and tank system, as well.
And, regarding the cacao visit… We visited a woman and her family… She had probably three or four cacao trees. They were a different variety from the ones in the mountain she told us. She said the mountain varieties were more bitter. When we asked if we could taste her cacao, she literally ran off in enthusiasm to gather her beans and share them with us. I can’t explain to you how wonderful it feels to be given something with such enthusiasm and from someone who doesn’t expect anything. Maybe cacao does this to a person???
Constructing an appropriate technology water wheel to pump water from the stream into the garden/farm area
Roasted, pressed cacao mass (left) and roasted cacao pods (right)
Grinding the cacao beans to make hot cocoa (you can shell the bean to get the cacao meat inside only or leave the outer shell on)
And, sticking to the topic of awesome abuelos, we also visited Magdalia’s father’s farm — Lorenzo. He had a terraced area behind a gravel processing plant (newly developed and sometimes kept him up at night — grrrrr). The project that day was to water the land and cover the area with bagaso (squeezed sugar cane, ‘waste-product’ from making raspadura), a great mulch in the tropics! Lorenzo had a way with birds and could swim like fish. In a country filled with ‘macho, macho’ men…this was a relief — to be around a mellow, light-stepping, bright-eyed abuelo. Here’s a picture of his small farm.
Terraced garden mulched with bagaso
We then visited El Valle, the site of a huge caldera. After a teeth-shattering, dust-kicking, cliff-hugging ride up and down the edge of the caldera in a bus (of sorts), we arrived in the lovely town of El Valle. They have a rather good farmer’s market and craft market (and they have recycling!). El Valle, obviously, holds a very ancient place in Panama’s heart; however, recently it has become a ‘hot’ tourist destination and homes and land have been bought up by mostly Europeans and folks from the US wanting to live part-time or relocate to Panama. None-the-less, we visited a rock with beautiful indigenous carvings…we hiked around the mountains…and soaked our feet in its streams…and admired El Valle.
Young man recites his understanding of the carvings
This carving is a ‘map’ of the El Valle greater region; it also explains how things came to be in that area (a cosmological narrative)
This design is said to be common in the functional art-work of the indigenous people (clothing, textiles, etc)
A climb up the side of the caldera
And now, it’s time to get a little more funky. Near the end of our time with SHI, we visited a few more families that were near the second and third level of the SHI five-phase process (mentioned near the beginning of this article). At this phase, the families have introduced small-scale, chemical-free farming and are ready for a composting toilet and a water filtration system. Indeed, it is VERY important for composting toilets to be a part of the culture in Panama. This returns precious nutrients back to depleted (deforested) soils and keeps fecal matter out of the waterways.
And, a little on soil health in the tropics… Basically, most of the nutrients in the tropical forests are in the trees and canopies of the jungle. It’s not in the soil. It’s really held above ground. So, deforesting the tropics is just devastating to the soil — soil erosion, nutrient depletion, etc. etc. That is why SHI focuses on Nitrogen-fixing plants, compost and soil production, and yes — smart use of poo. Luckily, Panama is a tropical place — it gets super hot. And, this is the perfect variable for frying your poo and killing pathogens.
Composting toilet: small ‘fly-catcher’ (reused soda bottle) just to the left of the white piping (air vent); metal grate to the left helps fry the poo; pipe out the back for diverted urine (can dilute 1 to 10 for garden — Nitrogen!)
And, here’s where the ‘gifts’ fall; lots of wood chips in there right now because (they said) that someone ‘used it wrong’ (meaning they mixed urine and poo too much) and they were letting the compost toilet rest for a month (dry out, I guess?), before resuming use again
Water filtration: basically, water comes up from the stream, goes through the large pipe (large rocks in there), then through the blue barrel on the left (higher up in the barrel medium-sized rocks on down to the bottom where there is sand — all for filtration of the water), then the water goes to the holding tank on the right
Water ‘wheel’ system (for watering garden/farm): this is one of our favorites; a simple small rope with ‘pulleys’ tied at approx a yard apart are sent down to the water and then up the pipe by a simple hand crank on the land; the water is carried up the pipe (by suction) and then emptied into a tank
Bicycle tires turn the ‘gears’ and there you can see the small pipe carrying the water leading to a larger pipe which empties the water into the holding tank
Turning the gears and filling up the water tank
We had an amazing time with the folks in Tranquillo and with SHI. In a country that is so complex — from a rich, indigenous past to Spanish occupation – to the deepening divide between the ‘have’ and the ‘have-nots’ – to the remaining wild tropical forests and the heavily grazed, clear-cut lands for cattle — SHI, I believe, is providing the means for everyday-people to work with the land instead of against the land…to maintain family security and to ensure people that they can be self-sufficient.
Thank you to the many people that opened the doors to their homes with us and shared food with us. Thank you for the stories you shared and thank you for listening to our stories.
May you all be nourished.
May you all be protected.
May you all know loving-kindness.
May we be nourished.
May we be protected.
May we know loving-kindness.
Oh yes, one more thing… The foodie/nutritionist in me CAN’T resist. Food is medicine… My four food wishes for Panama are:
1 — No refined oils — Start making your own cold pressed, extra virgin oil from coconut and palm (you have plenty of them and these oils are VERY good for you!)
2 — No refined sugars — Ok, ok, ok — you have mineral rich raspadura… However, sugar cane is not only a colonial crop, it is an annual. Plus, more people are eating white, refined sugar than anything else right now, and that is a sure road to Diabetes! What about coconut sugar (like in Thailand?) that has a very low glycemic index OR palm sugar (called jaggary in India)?
3 — No refined flours — Wheat flour is everywhere and it is a very processed wheat flour. If something can last on the shelf for years — we really shouldn’t eat it. I have heard that using cashew nuts for simple, flat breads was part of the traditional cuisine in Panama — what about returning to that? And, what about more maize (make sure to nixtamalize!).
4 — No chemical salt — The salt in those shakers is just a chemical — NaCl. It’s made in a lab. It’s not salt. Get salt from a salt marsh or deposit — or from the ocean! Chemical salt — like refined sugar — literally robs the body of nutrients so that it can be digested. Sea salt actually provides the body needed trace minerals for healthy growth of tissues and to fuel metabolic functions.
Sigh… Ok, it’s true. I would have these kinds of suggestions for most countries that are going head-to-head with the beautiful speed of the modern world. Nutrition just falls to the wayside. And, with that — traditional food ways, the Mother Consciousness, and deep nourishment. It’s hard to watch…but, I see it all the time no matter where I travel. It’s something we all are facing and coming to terms with in the world — because something is fast does it make it better?
That’s all folks — keep it real.































































